Layers Upon Layers
The ancient city of Rome has built and rebuilt itself time and time again. Saturated in ruins and restoration, today’s Roman’s live on the grounds of yesterday. Their culture, steeped in tradition, upholds a quality reminiscent of ancient grandeur.
Location: Capital of Italy’s Lazio Region.
Coordinates: 41°54′N 12°30′E
Saturated in ruins and restoration, today’s Roman’s live on the grounds of yesterday.
Eat + Drink
Fiaschetteria Beltramme – In Campo Marizo, a great place to stop for lunch in between visiting the area’s famous piazzas including San Lorenzo and Lucina.
Ditta Trinchetti – In Trastevere, Order a bottle of wine and pasta, sit back and watch the passerby’s of Trastevere. Located on a small cobble stone street, the outdoor tables are old and slanted, enhancing the romance of a Roman afternoon spent in the cities oldest neighborhood, watching passerby’s gawk at the surrounding sites + architecture.
Mercato Centrale – Quite the smorgasbord located in Termini Train station, this market has an overwhelming array of options. From sushi to truffles, you can spend hours here sampling all sorts of yum. A little something (or a lot of something) for everyone.
Zia Rosetta – A very small salad / juice / sandwich shop in Monti. Rosetta is a typical roman bun used to make the sandwiches served here. These can be purchased as “minis” if you would like to try a few different types, or as a single large sandwich.
It’s only a matter of hours once you land in Rome until you hear the word “aperitivo”. Suggesting both a pre-dinner drink as well as a light pre-dinner snack, an aperitivo is intended to open the appetite and is ageless in desirability as the young and old indulge in the tradition of food + drink + socializing that the aperitivo offers.
Acceptable drinks include: Procecco, vermouth, Campari or Aperol, as all are said to kickstart digestion.
Food is meant to accompany the drink and ignite your appetite.
Many restaurants in Rome have expanded the traditional aperitivo into the apericena – the mid point between aperitivo + dinner.
During aperitivo / apericena time (post work, pre-dinner) many restaurants offer the whole experience for the cost of a single drink.
I really enjoyed LA ZANZARA – in Prati.
We sat outside, ordered an Aperol Spritz and enjoyed a wide variety of “bite-sized” snacks, ending with an order of quiet possibly the best tiramisu I had in Rome.
Great article explaining in depth the etiquette here.
Osteria Lasolfa – Typical Roman food in the neighborhood of Esquilino, not too far from the colosseum and within walking distance of Boutique B&B.
Bottega De Santis – Also in Esquilino, close to Museo Nazionale Degli and Basilica di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme as well as the Park Villa Wolkonsky. This area is not touristy and it’s restaurants are full of locals. Try the fish ravioli and aubergine starter.
Temakinho – Brazilian Sushi in Monti with sustainability at the forefront of everything they do.
Vladimiro – Just around the corner from central Via Veneto, serving typical Roman food. Both elegant and historic, the pasta dishes are topnotch.
Stroll the Jewish Ghetto neighborhood and choose from a variety of restaurants serving fried artichoke.
Zuma – The rooftop of Fendi Palace in Via Del Corso, you know this bar is it’s full of fancy. Sit outside in the summer’s evening air and enjoy the sound of swirling ice and clinking glasses against the soft murmur of Italian. Appropriate attire is required.
Hotel Eden – 3 minutes from the Spanish Steps, Hotel Eden is worth at least a peak and perhaps a 25 euro cocktail depending on your budget. The downstairs lobby has a library / speakeasy esque bar with a fancy man in a fancy suit serving fancy drinks. The rooftop has offerings to match the view complete with famous Italian wines available by the glass. Best at sunset.
Cafe Propaganda – Amazing cocktails + atmosphere, very folk magazine. We went straight for their Old Fashions.
The Barber Shop – Dark walls, velvet couches, incredible craft cocktails. Warm soft floaty feeling of a proper speakeasy in the Monti neighborhood.
MAIN TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
NOT AS WELL KNOWN
Villa Borghese Gardens – Walk around the gardens and boat to the Temple of Asclepius, romantically surrounded by water.
Gianicolo – A very nice view over Rome, good for evenings or date nights.
LATE NIGHT GRIT
Micca Jazz Club – Retro vibe and late night dancing in Trevi.
Freni E Frizioni – Sit along the stone ledge just outside and soak in the night air + inspired conversation.
Nuovo Mercato Esquilino – Food.
Monti Urban Market – Vintage goods.
MAXXI Museum – For lovers of art and architecture.
Castel St. Angelo– Ancient castle full of fascination and history.
Trastevere – “Beyond the Tiber” in Latin, this neighborhood makes up part of the Tiber River’s west bank, south of Vatican City. Cobble stones wind through historic buildings drenched in ivy, rich in stories of the wealthy + poor of the ages. Narrow alleyways and muted piazzas conjure images of daily lives long forgotten yet still enriched in the same worn out stone.
Lovely anytime of day, animated by bards and crowds at night.
Rione Monti – So hip. Full of novelty boutiques and restaurants, artists and musicians, continuously popping-up the next hip thing. The neighborhood has a unique bohemian vibe, the kind of vibe that is only possible when beach vibes are mixed with historic alleyways far from any sandy waters. We wandered through antique bookstores selling rare nude paintings, minimalistic and well curated home good boutiques, and sat in a designer’s studio on a leather sofa that used to belong to Mick Jagger. All in a short afternoon.
Relais Clivo Vaticano – Small boutique hotel just outside the Vatican walls. There is an outdoor hot tub and the courtyard is always quiet, with a guest only policy.
Boutique B&B – Two subway stops away from Termini train station, this B&B is a great landing pad in Rome. Each room has a different look + feel, the beds are big and comfy, and the showers are spacious. With 24 / 7 access to the kitchen, coffee and cookies, the stay feels more homey then hotely.
OTHER GREAT NEIGHBORHOODS